Showing posts with label slst. Show all posts
Showing posts with label slst. Show all posts

05 November 2013

Rectangular Felted Soap Cozy

The holidays are approaching, and one of the things on my list of things to make is felted soap cozies. Using a bit of wool, any bar of soap can easily be turned into a washcloth/soap combination gift. The soap lasts super long, and the wool makes a nice exfoliator all at once. Plus, the washcloth wrapped around the bar means no more dropped soap!

This pattern will fit a pretty typically size bar of artisanal soap: 4x4x8 cm.

Materials:
wool yarn, worsted weight
hook: 4.25mm/G

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
fsc = foundation single crochet
sc = single crochet
slst = slipstitch

1. 12 fsc.*
   *If you do not know foundation single crochet, you can instead: ch 13, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc through rest of chain (12 sc).
2.-6. ch 1, turn, sc across (12 sc).
7. ch 7, turn, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc across (18 sc).
8.-11. ch 1, turn, sc across (18 sc).
12. skip first sc, slst across next 5 sc. ch 1, sc across (12 sc).
13.-17. ch 1, turn, sc across (12 sc).
18. ch 7, sc into 2nd ch from hook and across (18 sc).
19-23. ch 2, turn, sc across (18 sc).
On the last row, you can finish, leaving a tail for sewing together if desired.

Assembly:
It now looks like a type of tetris block. You will be folding it up into a box, then sewing it together. It will feel kinda snug on the soap bar, that's ok.

The finished crochet work laid out flat.


I've used plastic safety pins to hold the sides together and show you how it makes a box. The short flaps of the tetris piece make the litte square sides.

I recommended sewing the three seams together from one square side, then sewing the short two seamsof the other square side.

Then slip in the soap and sew up the last two sides.

This is how it looks all sewn up! After a few uses, it'll felt up all on its own. If you're giving it as a gift, you may want to go ahead and spend some time felting. Just rub it for a while using warm to hot water, and a washboard is helpful for faster felting.

19 May 2013

Triskele - The Triple Spiral

This triple spiral pattern makes a great trivet or potholder when worked in cotton and a lovely decoration worked in any fiber.
The inner color uses approximately 30 yards of worsted weight yarn, and the outer uses approximately 35 yards of worsted weight yarn.
For more information about the triskele, you can visit its Wikipedia page


Materials:
Yarn: 2 colors worsted weight (acrylic used in model)
    A - outside connections (yellow) - 35 yards
    B - inside connections (blue) - 30 yards
Hook: 5.0mm
Stitch markers
Yarn needle


Abbreviations:
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
mr = magic ring
sc = single crochet
slst = slip stitch
st = stitch(es)


Note: Magic ring (mr) can be substituted with (ch 3, slst to form ring).


Spirals (Make 3):
1: With A, make a mr, ch 1. Working into ring, 1sc, 1 hdc, 2dc. Remove hook and insert stitch marker into loop. This helps hold the previous stitches while working with the other color. Continue to insert the stitch marker in this way for the rest of the project. (4 st)
2: With B, attach to mr with slst, ch 1. Working into ring, 1sc, 1 hdc, 2dc. Work 2 dc in each of first four A stitches. Insert stitch marker. (12 st)
3: Remove stitch marker and insert hook into loop of A. Work 2 dc in each of first 8 st of color B. Work (1 dc, 2 dc) twice. Insert stitch marker. (22 st)
4: Remove stitch marker and insert hook into loop of B. Work 2 dc in next 4 stitches of A. Work (1 dc in stitch, 2 dc in next stitch) nine times. Insert stitch marker. (35 st)
5: Remove stitch marker and insert hook into loop of A. Work (1 dc in stitch, 2 dc in next stitch) seven times. Insert stitch marker. (49 st)
6: Remove stitch marker and insert hook into loop of B. Work (1 dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next stitch) six times. 1 hdc, 1 sc. End off leaving 6 inch tail. (26 st)
7: Remove stitch marker and insert hook into loop of A. Work 1(1 dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next stitch) seven times. Work 1 dc in next 14 st. End off leaving 6 inch tail. (14 st)



Assembly: Instructions are given using color names for ease of naming the parts.

1.Arrange spirals so blue sections face each other, yellow ends clockwise of blue ends.

2. Using yellow tails, attach the last yellow dc of each spiral to the fourth dc counter-clockwise of the last blue stitches on the neighboring spiral.

3. Using the blue tails, attach the last three blue stitches of each spiral to the three dc counter-clockwise of the last yellow stitches on the neighboring spiral.




13 April 2013

May Day Barefoot Sandals

Summer is upon us here in Florida and fast approaching in many other parts of the USA. To help celebrate May Day (aka Beltaine), I've crafted a pair of barefoot sandals. They're fun for wearing around the yard or house on these warm days.
Sandals are shown tied two different ways and on two different toes to show the different ways of wearing them.

Materials:
Cotton yarn, approxiamately 20 yards.
Hook 4.5mm

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
ss - slipstitch
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
ch-sp - chain space (space in work form by chain stitch, sometimes forms an arch)

Directions:
1. Ch 12, ss into a ring
2. Ch 4, sc 3 into 2nd ch from hook, turn
3. Ch 7, ss into 2nd sc from step 2, ch 4, dc into last of previous row, turn
4. Ch 1, sc 3 into ch-sp, ch 5, sc 3 into next ch-sp, turn
5. Ch 5, sc into ch-sp, ch 4, sc into last stitch of previous row, turn
6. Ch 1, sc 2 into ch-sp, ch 1, sc 2 into same ch-sp, ch 2, sc 2 into next ch-sp, ch 1, sc 2 into same ch-sp, turn
7. Ch 2, sc 2 in ch-sp, ch 1, (sc 2, ch 1, sc 2) into big chain-sp, ch 1, sc 2 in ch-sp, ch 1, sc into last stitch of previous row, turn
8. Ch 5, sc in ch-sp, ch 2, sc in ch-sp, ch 2, sc in ch-sp, ch 5, sc into last stitch of previous row, turn
9. Ch 5, [sc in ch-sp, ch 3] three times, sc in ch-sp, ch 5, ss into last stitch of previous row.
10. Ch 30 for tie (or make it as long as you'd like). Finish off.
11. Attach yarn to opposite side of sandal, ch 30 for tie (or as long as you like, matching length with previous tie). Finish off and weave in all ends.
Note: When finishing off ties, you can choose not to weave them in (such as in the picture below). This gives you a slightly longer pair of ties, and make it look more delicate.


As always, please feel free to ask questions and leave comments.

02 February 2013

Mary Jane Slippers

As part of The Curious Pug's crochet-along series, I made a neat pair of Mary Jane Slippers for January.

I didn't use a contrasting color for the final border and button loop like the pattern recommend. I am happy to have found a good pair of blue buttons. So far, these have been quite comfy for padding around the house and sitting on the couch.
The pattern is here, and check out the link up featuring others who made the slippers in January here.

18 January 2013

Snowdrop Flower




I'm currently involved in a year-long swap, exchanging gifts with a new friend. She recently mentioned that snowdrops start appearing near her around the start of February (when her next package from me should arrive). I searched high and low for a snowdrop flower inspired crochet pattern, but nothing I found was satisfactory in the least. So what was I to do besides write a pattern? :)

**This is not a beginner pattern. Please read all of the instructions before starting. I have include lots of pictures after the instructions, so hopefully that'll be helpful.**

Stitches:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
fsc - foundation single crochet
fhdc - foundation half-double crochet
fdc - foundation double crochet
slst - slip-stich

first foundation single crochet:
1. Insert hook into 2nd chain or loop from hook, yarn over and pull through.
2. Yarn over and pull through one loop (forming the foundation chain).
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops.

foundation single crochet (fsc):
1. Insert hook into foundation chain of previous stitch, yarn over and pull through.
2. Yarn over and pull through one loop (forming the foundation chain).
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops.

foundation half-double crochet (fhdc):
1. Yarn over. Insert hook into foundation chain of previous stitch, yarn over and pull through.
2. Yarn over and pull through one loop (forming the foundation chain).
3. Yarn over and pull through three loops.

foundation double crochet (fdc):
1. Yarn over. Insert hook into foundation chain of previous stitch, yarn over and pull through.
2. Yarn over and pull through one loop (forming the foundation chain).
3. Yarn over and pull through two loops.
4. Yarn over and pull through two loops.

Materials:
worsted weight yarn
    green - approx 3 yards
    white - approx 6 yards
4.5 mm hook
yarn needle


Directions:

Green
Stem:
1. Staring with green, ch 2. Insert hook into second chain from hook.
2. yarn over, pull through ch
3. yarn over, pull through one loop (foundation chain portion of stitch made)
4. yarn over, pull through two loops (fsc made)
5. insert hook into foundation chain portion of previous fsc
6. yarn over, pull through ch
7. yarn over, pull through one loop
8. yarn over, pull through two loops
9. repeat steps 5-8 six more times (total of 8 fsc)
10. ch 2, 6 sc into 2nd ch from hook
11. slst to first sc make a circle, finish off

White
Inner Petals:
1. attach white with slst to any front loop of green sc
2. sc into front loop of next green sc, ch 2, sc flo of next green sc (first petal made)
3. repeat step 2 twice more (three petals made)
4. slst to next green front loop

Outer Petals:
5. slst into closest back loop of green sc
6. ch 1, insert hook into same green back loop of sc as previous slst to start fsc, complete fsc
7. insert hook into foundation chain of fsc, make fhdc
8. continue inserting hook into previous foundation chain to make fdc, fhdc, fsc (half petal made)
9. ch 1, using foundation chains of first half of petal: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc (petal made)
10. slst to next green back loop to attach petal; slst into next green back loop
11. repeat 6-10 twice more (three petals made)
12. weave in ends
You're done! 




And now for lots of pictures: 
ch 2
insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yarn over, pull through
yarn over, pull through: foundation chain made
yarn over, pull through both loops: first fsc
insert hook into foundation chain of first fsc
yarn over, pull through
yarn over, pull through one loop; yarn over, pull through both loops: second fsc made
eight completed fsc
ch 2
6 sc into ch
slipstitched into a circle
attach white with slst to a front loop; ch 1; insert hook into next front loop to start sc
sc
sc, ch 2, sc - first inner petal
three inner petals

slst to nearest back loop

ch 1, insert hook into next back loop to start fsc; yarn over and pull through green
 yarn over pull through one white loop
yarn over pull through both white loops: fsc made
insert into foundation chain portion of fsc, start fhdc
half petal
ch 1, insert into foundation chain of last fsc of petal to start sc
first petal complete
slst into next back loop to finish first petal; slst into next back loop to start next petal
two petals
three petals
ends all sewn in

12 November 2012

Polar Bear Applique


Polar Bear!

I actually worked up this pattern nearly a year ago for a friend who wanted a polar bear to add to her husband's hat. Some slight disorganization and other life stuff had me forget about it until just a short bit ago. I found the pattern and the pictures and decided it was time to share this fun pattern with you! Finished size is about 4in long and 3in tall. As always, feel free to ask questions and leave comments.
P.S. Sorry some of the pictures are a bit fuzzy, but hopefully they'll still help you visualize what's intended.

Polar Bear Applique
 
Supplies:
Worsted weight yarn
Hook: 8/H - 5.0mm

Abbreviations:
blo = back loop only
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet.
sc = single crochet
ss = slipstitch

I. Starting the body.
Foundation: ch 9, turn
Round 1: sc blo into 2nd ch from hook. 7 sc blo, ch 1. Turn work 180° clockwise, so unused loops of foundation chain are up. Sc blo into unused loops of foundation chain (8 sc). Ch 1, turn 180° clockwise, ss into first sc.
Round 2: ch 1, 18 sc (going all the way around the oval). ss and cut yarn.
(I find it helpful to go ahead and weave in the ending tail at this point.)
Round 1
Round 2

II. Starting the head.
Round 1: Make a magic loop (I like this tutorial for the magical loop). ch 1, 7 sc into the loop, ch 1, ss blo into first sc of this round.
Round 2: ch 3, ss blo (makes ear). 3 ss blo, ch 3, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into ch, ss blo to head (makes snout). 3 ss blo.
head next to body

III. Attaching to & around body.
  1. ss blo to body (on shorter side of oval). ss blo 3.
  2. ch 5, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc 3 into chains, ss blo to body (makes front leg).
  3. 3 ss blo, ch 5, sc into 2nd ch from hook. 2 sc, 1 hdc, skip 1 stitch on body, ss blo to body (makes back leg).
  4. 10 ss blo, ss blo to head. finish yarn. Weave in remaining ends. 

Head attached
Almost there

29 September 2012

Apple Pencil Jar

I have a couple teacher friends, so I decided it would be cute to have a stuffed apple pencil jar. This pattern is for a jar about 2 inches in diameter and 2 inches tall, but increases and decreases could be added in order to accommodate other jar sizes. Feel free to ask for help in regards to sizing and I'll do my best via the internet.

Leaf 2 is the front of this picture.

Yarn: worsted weight (Loops & Threads Impeccable Solids: Burgundy)
Hook: 4.25mm/G
A stitch marker will be useful as this pattern is written to be stitched in a spiral.

hdc = half-double crochet
hdc2tog = half-double crochet two together, half-double crochet decrease

Start with a magic loop. (Tips on making circles here.)
  1. 6 hdc into loop.
  2. 2 hdc into each hdc below (12 hdc).
  3. *2 hdc in 1st hdc, 1 hdc in next hdc* repeat 5 more times around (18 hdc).
  4. *2 hdc in 1st hdc, 1 hdc in next 2 hdc* repeat 5 more times around (24 hdc).
  5. *2 hdc in 1st hdc, 1 hdc in next 3 hdc* repeat 5 more times around (30 hdc).
  6. *2 hdc in 1st hdc, 1 hdc in next 4 hdc* repeat 5 more times around (36 hdc).
  7. *2 hdc in 1st hdc, 1 hdc in next 5 hdc* repeat 5 more times around (42 hdc).
  8. 1 hdc in each hdc aroud (42 hdc).
  9. *2 hdc in 1st hdc, 1 hdc in next 6 hdc* repeat 5 more times around (48 hdc).
  10. *hdc2tog in 1st hdc, 1 hdc in next 6 hdc* repeat 5 more times around (42 hdc).
  11. *hdc2tog in 1st hdc, 1 hdc in next 5 hdc* repeat 5 more times around (36 hdc).
  12. *hdc2tog in 1st hdc, 1 hdc in next 4 hdc* repeat 5 more times around (30 hdc). Go ahead and put in some stuffing.
  13. *hdc2tog in 1st hdc, 1 hdc in next 3 hdc* repeat 5 more times around (24 hdc). Add more stuffing if you think it needs it.
  14. *hdc2tog in 1st hdc, 1 hdc in next 2 hdc* repeat 5 more times around (18 hdc)
  15. 1 hdc in each hdc aroud (18 hdc). Finish and weave in end.
The top of the stitches should fit right up against the jar's threading. If it's still too loose, you can (hdc2tog, hdc) around until it's tight enough. If your stitching gets tight enough to stay up on the threading before you get down to 18 stitches, then you can stop there. If it's a good tightness but you'd like it to cover a bit more of the top of the jar, add another round of stitches.



Optional, but fun, here are the leaves I made. The second comes out a bit pointier at the one end.

Leaf 1:
Ch 6.
In one side of chain: sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, dc, hdc, sc. ch 1.
Continuing up other side of chain: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc.
Finish and leave a tail for attaching to the apple.

Leaf 2:
Ch 7.
In one side of chain: sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc. ch 1.
Continuing up other side of chain: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st.
Finish and leave a tail for attaching to the apple.

Leaf 2 is in the front of this picture.

04 December 2011

The Basic Circle

I did not come up with this pattern, but I've noticed it's reappearance in many circular patterns I've used. Want to make a coaster or a trivet? This is the place to start. Also good for a circular dish towel, the base to a mug cozy, or even the bottom of a stuffed toy! I've included two variations.

Abbreviations:
sc = single crochet
ch = chain
slst = slip stitch

With slipstitch rounds and chains to go up: can leave a visable line (spiraling out from center) at row joinings, especially on the back of the work.
Do 1A or 1B.
1A. Start a magic ring with 6 sc, slst closed
  Photo tutorial available here.
  Video available here.
1B. ch 6, slst to form ring, ch 1, sc 6 into ring, slst closed
2. ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc total), slst
3. ch 1, *2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next sc* repeat around ring (18 sc), sl st
4. ch 1, *2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* repeat around ring (24 sc), sl st
5. ch 1, *2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc* repeat around ring (30 sc), sl st
6. ch 1, *2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc* repeat around ring (36 sc), sl st
Continue adding 1 sc to each repeat until the circle is as large as you'd like.


Working in a spiral: eliminates spiral line, requires a bit more counting and paying attention.

Do 1A or 1B.
1A. Start a magic ring with 6 sc
  Photo tutorial available here.
  Video available here.
1B. ch 6, slst to form ring, ch 1, sc 6 into ring
2. 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc total)
3. *2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next sc* repeat 5 more times (18 sc)
4. *2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc* repeat 5 more times (24 sc)
5. *2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc* repeat 5 more times (30 sc)
6. *2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc* repeat 5 more times (36 sc)
Continue adding 1 sc to each repeat until the circle is as large as you'd like.


Here is a sampling of things I've made recently which incorporated the Basic Circle. The captions are links to the patterns, all free!
Lop Bunny

Froggie Coaster

Tribble Coasters

11 October 2011

Kokopelli Applique

Kokopelli Applique
                        Before Application        
                                                                                                           After Application


Yarn: Fingering weight
Hook: 3.5mm

Abbreviations:
ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet
slst – slip stich

Magic circle video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Body:
Start with a magic circle. This will be the head.*
ch 1hdc 10 into the magic circle.
slst last hdc to ch
ch 25 (chest, stomach, 1st leg)
slst into 2nd ch from hook, slst 9 (1st leg)
ch 13 (crotch, 2nd leg)
slst into 2nd ch from hook, slst 9 (2nd leg)
ch 16 (back)
slst into beginning of ch stitches, forming the neck
slst 3 (chest)
ch 6 (1st arm)
slst into 2nd ch from hook, slst 4 (1st arm)
slst 2 (chest)
ch 8 (2nd arm)
slst into 2nd ch from hook, slst 6 (2nd arm)
slst 9 (stomach)
slst ch which starts leg 1
slst 2 (crotch)
slst ch which starts leg 2
slst 16 (back)
Fasten and weave in tail to back of head.

Flute:
Pull loop through 2nd hdc clockwise from neck.
Fasten starting tail and weave through back of head.
ch 5
slst to 1st arm
ch 1
slst to 2nd arm
ch 4
Tie tightly and cut tail.

Hair:
(similar to flute, four strands)
Pull loop through hdc on top of head (suggest 3rd, 4th, 5th, & 6th clockwise from flute)
Fasten starting tail and weave through back of head. Tails of hair can also be tied to one another before weaving through back of head for further security.
Four lengths of hair:
  ch 7 for longest
  ch 6 for next
  ch 5 for next
  ch 4 for last
Tie tightly and cut the end tail.



*Using a magic circle helps keep the head the right proportions and without a hole in the middle. If you'd rather there be only an outline of the head instead of a solid one try this:
ch 10, slst to form circle for head
after slst back to neck, slst around head to maintain outline thickness



Creative Commons License
Kokopelli Applique by Jessica A Prescott is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.